The mountain range Sunduki or Chests is one of the most
mysterious places in Khakassia. It stretches in the Shirinsky and
Ordzhonikidzevsky districts, not far from the village of Iyus.
An
array of five separate outlier mountains, up to 200 m high,
combining burial grounds, rock paintings and special structures,
which, all together, according to some archaeologists, were used by
ancient people to observe the stars, the sun and the moon.
The
ridge stretches for 4.5 kilometers from north to south and consists
of five main fortresses, but it got its name from the northernmost
mountain - Sunduki, on top of which there is a rock in the form of a
cube, similar in shape to a chest. After that, other hills received
serial numbers.
First Sunduk. The most beautiful, interesting
and significant in the ridge in the ritual and astrological sense.
Back in Soviet times, in this area, when plowing a field, a shaman’s
grave was accidentally opened with a tractor. Then a stone was dug
out, on which the constellations of the other hemisphere were
depicted and some stars visible almost through a telescope.
According to Academician V. E. Larichev, who has been studying Sunduki
for about 30 years, it was here that the “world mountain” was
located - an astrological sanctuary, including a priestly temple and
an ancient observatory. Scientists have long known about the
mythical world mountain, supposedly located at the North Pole.
According to legend, this is a kind of primordial land where the
greatest gods lived and where the first people appeared. Each nation
had its own world mountain, or rather, its image. It turns out that
the First Sunduk is a world mountain for this region.
The
second chest is of particular interest to photographers - numerous
stone pyramids are being built on it. The construction of such
pyramids has deep roots: earlier, the Khakass created them as
dwellings of mountain spirits in especially revered places, which
included Sunduki from ancient times. In the area of the second and
third Chests, you can find evidence of this, in the form of several
ancient stone fences of burial grounds.
On the cliffs of the
Fourth Sunduk there are drawings carved more than two thousand years
ago. Petroglyphs are a kind of heroic epic in paintings. They show
not only the difficult earthly path of the hero, but also the other
world, where he ends up after death at the hands of an enemy lurking
in an ambush (the lower part of the stone slab). The exposition of
the Shirinsky Museum of Local Lore can tell you more about their
interpretation. The most mysterious is the White Horse petroglyph.
Scientists suggest that the drawing appeared about 16 thousand years
ago, during the Ice Age. In the image of this Horse, the ancestors
saw the renewed Time.
The Fifth Sunduk is the southernmost of
all. In front of it is a large group of burial grounds. At its foot
is an irrigation canal, one of those that has been preserved since
ancient times (already in the 1st millennium BC, the
Khakass-Minusinsk basin was the center of irrigated agriculture).
People still wonder what it is: an observatory of the ancients,
a cult place, a platform for landing alien spacecraft, or all
together? The entire complex is often referred to as the Temple of
the Sun. There is a legend that the Khakass spirits do not let
everyone into this place, confuse the road or send thunderstorms
with strong winds. If you still manage to get to the Sunduki, do not
forget to tie a strip of cloth to the sacrificial tree (you will see
it right away), this will be your sign of worship to the omnipresent
spirits.
This magical place has another unique feature -
excellent acoustics. If a person speaks quietly, standing on the top
of a slope, listeners at the bottom of the ridge can hear him
perfectly, although the distance between them is 200-300 meters. The
shape of the mountain, resembling a horseshoe, creates a corridor
through which sound travels without losing its volume and
intelligibility. This is possible due to the air flow going from top
to bottom.
Not far from these mysterious mountains, you can
live in numerous camp sites and tent camps located on Lake Bele.
Bases: "Big reach", "ELKO", "Dacha Pavlova", "GOLDEN STAR",
"Chalpan", "Aviator".
From the highway from Shir to the Kommunar mine, it is necessary to
turn right between the villages of Marchelgash and Topanovo - onto the
highway crossing Bely Iyus along a reinforced concrete bridge. Behind
the bridge is the first turn to the right and there is that gravel road
that leads past Sunduki to the railway station.
If you go to Sunduki
from Malaya Syya, you can shorten the path by turning off the Shirinsky
highway outside the village of Troshkino, in front of the pass through
Kyzyl-Khaya, to the left, onto a dirt road that runs along the Iyus and
leads directly to the bridge over the river. In some places the road
comes close to the shore.
The Sunduki mountain range, also known as the "Chests" or
"Sundukhtar" in Khakas language, is a distinctive geological formation
located in the Republic of Khakassia, southern Siberia, Russia. It spans
the Ordzhonikidzevsky and Shirinsky districts, situated in the valley of
the Bely Iyus River. This range forms a continuation of the Efremkinsky
ridge, which are spurs of the larger Kuznetsk Alatau mountain system.
The nearest major city is Abakan, approximately 150 kilometers to the
southeast, with coordinates centered around 54°40′45.44″N 89°42′29.74″E.
The range covers an area of about 21 km² and stretches roughly 10 km
from south to north, though some descriptions limit the core ridge to
4.5 km. It is part of the broader Khakass-Minusinsk basin, an area
historically significant for irrigated agriculture dating back to the
1st millennium BC.
Topography
Sunduki is characterized by a
series of isolated, low-lying mountain remnants or buttes, often
described as five main peaks (referred to as the 1st to 5th Sunduki),
with heights reaching up to 200 meters above the surrounding terrain and
an absolute elevation of up to 557 meters. The northernmost peak, the
1st Sunduk, features a prominent cube-shaped rock formation resembling a
chest, which gives the range its name. Southward, the 2nd Sunduk
includes stone pyramids, the 3rd and 4th have cliffs and slopes with
historical carvings, and the 5th is the southernmost, often associated
with burial grounds and ancient canals. Some accounts include four
additional southern peaks across the Bely Iyus River (6th to 9th
Sunduki: Abyyakh-khaya, Krest-khaya, Orta-khaya, Uzun-khaya), expanding
the total to nine outcrops. The topography exhibits sharp asymmetry,
with steep eastern slopes contrasting gently sloping western sides that
descend into the river valley. The overall shape can resemble a
horseshoe in sections, creating natural corridors. The mountains are
relatively accessible for climbing, offering panoramic views of
surrounding low ranges, the Bely Iyus valley, and remnants of ancient
irrigation systems. The landscape includes prairies, foggy valleys, and
steep edges, contributing to a dramatic visual profile, especially in
autumn and summer.
Geology
Geologically, the Sunduki range is
composed primarily of red-brown Devonian sandstone, locally termed
Khyzyl-khaya or "Red-Rock." These formations date back to the Devonian
period (approximately 419–358 million years ago) and represent eroded
remnants of ancient sedimentary deposits. The buttes are outlier
mountains, shaped by long-term erosion processes that have isolated them
from the parent Kuznetsk Alatau spurs. Notable features include
cube-shaped rocks, stone pyramids (possibly natural or enhanced by
ancient human activity), and cliffs with exceptional acoustics due to
slope angles and air flow patterns, where sounds can carry clearly over
200–300 meters. The area also contains quartz and marble stones arranged
in patterns, adding to its unique geological character.
Climate
While specific microclimate data for Sunduki is limited, the range lies
in a continental climate zone typical of southern Siberia. Winters are
cold and harsh, with temperatures often dropping below -20°C (-4°F),
accompanied by snowfall. Summers are warm, reaching up to 25–30°C
(77–86°F), with occasional thunderstorms and strong winds. The valley
setting contributes to foggy mornings, particularly in autumn, enhancing
the misty prairie landscapes. The region experiences moderate
precipitation, supporting steppe vegetation, but can be prone to dry
periods. (Inferred from broader Khakassia climate patterns.)
Flora and Fauna
The Sunduki area preserves virgin steppe ecosystems
with diverse phytocenoses (plant communities). Notable flora includes
rare and endemic species such as Bupleurum scorzonerifolium (goat leaf),
Panzerina lanata (woolly panzerina), large-flowered slipper (Cypripedium
macranthos), and dryad (Dryas spp.). These plants thrive in the
protected habitats of the low mountains and valleys. Fauna is
highlighted by avian species, including rare birds like the peregrine
falcon (Falco peregrinus), saker falcon (Falco cherrug), lesser kestrel
(Falco naumanni), eastern imperial eagle (Aquila heliaca), great horned
owl (Bubo bubo), and steppe eagle (Aquila nipalensis). The steppe
environment likely supports small mammals, insects, and reptiles adapted
to grassland and rocky terrains, though detailed inventories are not
extensively documented in sources.
Hydrology and Other
Geographical Aspects
Hydrologically, the range is closely tied to the
Bely Iyus River, which flows through the valley and has supported
ancient irrigation canals visible from the peaks. These canals, dating
back over 2,000 years, underscore the area's role in historical
agriculture. The range's protection as a natural monument (IUCN Category
III) since 1988 covers 2,100 hectares, safeguarding its geological,
ecological, and cultural features. Access involves gravel roads from
nearby highways, with river crossings, and nearby lakes like Bele
provide recreational bases. Overall, Sunduki's geography blends natural
isolation with human historical imprints, making it a unique Siberian
landmark.
The Sunduki mountain range, often translated as "Chests" due to its
distinctive box-like rock formations, is a striking geological and
historical site located in the Republic of Khakassia, southern Siberia,
Russia. Spanning the Ordzhonikidzevsky and Shirinsky districts near the
Bely Iyus River in the Abakan River Basin, the range consists of five
primary outlier mountains (numbered 1st to 5th Sunduk) aligned north to
south over approximately 4.5 kilometers, with elevations reaching up to
200 meters. These red-brown Devonian sandstone buttes rise dramatically
from the surrounding floodplain, forming a natural ridge that has
captivated humans for millennia. The name "Sunduki" derives from the
Russian and Khakass word for "chests" or "trunks," reflecting the cubic,
chest-shaped summits, particularly on the 1st Sunduk. Additional
southern peaks bear Khakass names like Abyyakh-khaya, Krest-khaya,
Orta-khaya, and Uzun-khaya. Beyond its visual allure, Sunduki is
renowned as one of the world's oldest astronomical observatories, a
sacred shamanic site, and a repository of ancient petroglyphs, earning
it nicknames like "Siberian Stonehenge" or "Temple of the Sun." Its
history intertwines natural formation with human ingenuity, spanning
from Paleolithic origins to Bronze Age fortifications and modern
preservation efforts.
Geological and Prehistoric Origins
Geologically, Sunduki dates back to the Devonian period (approximately
419–358 million years ago), when sedimentary processes formed its
sandstone layers. Erosion over eons sculpted the buttes into their
current horseshoe-like shapes, creating natural corridors and acoustic
phenomena—such as on the 1st Sunduk, where whispers from the slope can
be heard clearly 200–300 meters away at the base due to airflow
dynamics. This unique topography likely drew early human inhabitants,
who modified the landscape by adding stones, carving clefts, and
erecting structures.
Human interaction with Sunduki began in the
Paleolithic era, with evidence suggesting occupation as far back as
16,000–18,000 years ago, during the late Ice Age. This makes it
potentially the oldest known astronomical observatory in Asia, predating
sites like Stonehenge (dated to 3100–2000 BC) by over 10,000 years.
Ancient inhabitants of the Bely Iyus valley, likely hunter-gatherer
groups ancestral to Siberian indigenous peoples, used the site for
celestial observations. The eight parallel sandstone mounds served as
vantage points for tracking daily sunrises, sunsets, and lunar
movements. Key features include a cliff engraving depicting dragon heads
in one direction and snake heads in the other; shadows cast by the sun
traverse the snake's body from head to tail in the morning and the
dragon's in the afternoon, functioning as a rudimentary time-telling
device. From specific observation spots, alignments allow determination
of true north and south, as well as solstice predictions. Academician
Vitaly Epifanovich Larichev, who studied the site for nearly 30 years
through "astro-archaeology" (non-invasive astronomical analysis),
interpreted it as a "World Mountain"—a mythical primordial land
symbolizing the universe's structure, where gods resided and the first
humans emerged. This cosmogonic view positioned Sunduki as a
proto-temple for understanding creation, with petroglyphs and alignments
reflecting ancient priesthood knowledge from the Paleometal era in
southwestern Siberia.
Among the earliest artifacts are petroglyphs
(rock carvings), including the enigmatic "White Horse" on the 4th
Sunduk, potentially created around 16,000 years ago. Ancestors may have
viewed this as a symbol of renewed time emerging from the Ice Age. These
carvings, scattered across the cliffs, encompass various styles and
motifs, from abstract symbols to animal figures, hinting at ritualistic
or spiritual purposes.
Bronze Age Developments and Archaeological
Significance
By the Bronze Age, specifically the mid-2nd millennium
BC during the Okunev culture, Sunduki evolved into a more structured
site. Around 4,000 years ago, inhabitants constructed fortifications
known as "Sve" (from Khakass for "fortress"). The most prominent, Sve
Onlo on the 1st Sunduk, features stone-and-earth ramparts with turfed
stones and vertical slabs enclosing rocky ridges and a canyon. These
served as defensive shelters for people and livestock during conflicts,
part of a regional system including Sve Tarpig 10 kilometers north.
Excavations in 1988 by Gottlieb A. of the Khakass State University (KSU)
archaeological laboratory uncovered Early Bronze Age ceramics,
confirming the dating and debunking earlier assumptions of medieval
Kyrgyz or Mongolian origins. The fortifications may have been restored
during the Kyrgyz state period (6th–13th centuries AD), blending layers
of use.
The Tagar culture (roughly 9th–3rd centuries BC) left a
profound mark, with petroglyphs on the 4th Sunduk depicting heroic
epics: an archer on skis, a roe deer, and scenes of a hero's earthly
trials, ambush, death, and afterlife journey. These "pisanitsas" (rock
paintings) illustrate shamanic themes, such as "Ouokh" resting places in
Yakut epic poetry, linking to broader Siberian folklore. Burial mounds
and grounds cluster at the base, particularly near the 5th Sunduk,
containing ancient interments. Irrigation canals from the 1st millennium
BC in the Khakass-Minusinsk basin highlight Sunduki's role in an
agricultural hub, supporting settled communities. The "Temple of Time"
on the 5th Sunduk—a niche with a six-part Dragon sundial—further
underscores its observatory function, though exact mechanisms remain
debated.
Other findings include tamga-petroglyphs (clan symbols),
cultural complexes, and a shaman's "Seated King" chair on the 1st Sunduk
with exceptional acoustics for rituals. A notable incident in Soviet
times involved a tractor accidentally uncovering a shaman's grave,
revealing a stone etched with constellations from the opposite
hemisphere and telescopically visible stars, suggesting advanced ancient
astronomical knowledge.
Cultural and Spiritual Significance in
Khakass Traditions
Sunduki holds immense cultural weight for the
indigenous Khakass people, a Turkic ethnic group with roots in the
region. It is tied to shamanism, with sites like carved warrior and
shaman faces embodying spiritual guardianship. The range is seen as a
sanctuary imbued with spirits, where rituals involved songs, dances,
herbs, or solstice leaps through clefts to access other realms. Stone
pyramids on the 2nd Sunduk were built as dwellings for mountain spirits,
and ancient stone fences mark burial areas. Legends abound: The 1st
Sunduk is linked to Khoho-Babay, a greedy hero who hid treasures in a
giant chest, deceived the gods, and was transformed into a bird of prey,
eternally circling the range in search of redemption. Another tale
attributes carved stone chests to the mythical Chud people, an ancient
vanished tribe in Siberian folklore. Khakass customs warn that spirits
may deter unworthy visitors with storms or confusion, advising offerings
like tying cloth strips to sacrificial trees upon arrival. The site's
etymology includes "Hyzyl Haya" (Red Rock) and "Sve Takh" (Fortress
Mountain), reflecting its dual defensive and sacred roles.
Modern
Discovery, Research, and Preservation
European Russians encountered
Sunduki during Siberia's colonization in the 17th–18th centuries, but
systematic study began in the 20th century. Larichev's work from the
1980s onward, through the Institute of Archaeology and Ethnography at
the Russian Academy of Sciences, revolutionized understanding by framing
it as an astro-archaeological complex without excavation. His
publications, such as those in 2008 and 2015, detail its cosmogonic
symbolism.
In 1988, the Khakass regional executive committee
designated Sunduki a protected natural monument (decision No. 164),
safeguarding its steppes, rare plants (e.g., Bupleurum scorzonerifolium,
Panzerina lanata, large-flowered slipper orchid), and bird habitats
(e.g., peregrine falcon, steppe eagle). A museum-reserve was
established, with the Sunduki Museum opening on June 18, 2011, to
interpret findings like petroglyphs through the Shirinsky Museum of
Local Lore. Today, it attracts tourists via accessible roads from
villages like Iyus or Malaya Syya, with nearby camps on Lake Bele.
Despite its remote location, Sunduki remains a living cultural site,
blending ancient mystery with ecological conservation in one of
Siberia's most enigmatic landscapes.
A great contribution to the study and popularization of the natural monument was made by Vitaly Epifanovich Larichev, the author of numerous scientific and popular science books, in particular on paleoastronomy: interpretation of cultural monuments of ancient people, which, according to the researcher, could embody the idea of their creators about the structure of the universe.