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Hotels, motels and where to sleep
Restaurant, taverns and where to eat
Kozelsk is located in the Kaluga region. Old
Russian legendary city is located few dozen kilometers south of
Kaluga. It is quite a popular tourist destination, connected not so
much with the history of the city, as with the no less famous
monastery -
Optina Monastery, which is located in close proximity to
Kozelsk.
Kozelsk is an ancient Russian city known since 1146.
He became famous for his heroic defense in 1238 from besieging
Tatar-Mongolian troops, who captured the city and burned it to the
ground. Last defenders formed an army and exited the main gate of
the town. They attacked the Mongolian troops, but were all cut down.
Most of citizens of the city were killed. Few either escaped or were
sold into slavery.
The administrative center of Kozelsky region.
Kozelsk travel
and excursion bureau, B.Sovetskaya str., D.66.
k_tour@kaluga.ru
Church architecture
The city has a preserved cathedral and the
Church of the Annunciation, but the widely known monastery Optina
Pustyn has the greatest interest.
Optina desert. Holy
Vvedensky monastery is located two kilometers from the city.
Civil architecture
Well-preserved numerous stone urban buildings,
merchant mansions of the XIX century.
Park 3 heroes, City
Garden, Stela
Kozelsky local history museum, st. B. Sovetskaya,
d. 75.
By train
There are trains
going once a week through Kozelsk station: Brest - Karaganda
(year-round) and Kaliningrad - Chelyabinsk (summer) (in the 2014
schedule, all trains go on weekdays, at 8.35 in the east direction
and at 17.30 in the west). On other days, you can get here only by
commuter trains from Sukhinichi (a large junction station in the
Kiev direction from Moscow; 2 per day) and Belyov (from which there
are no trains in other directions at all; 3 per day).
Hotel "Kars", Kolkhoznaya
street, 19A. kars-hotel@mail.ru ☎ +7 (48442) 2-64-64, +7 (48442)
2-64-44. The hotel also has a restaurant with 130 seats.
Guest house "Kozelsk",
Chkalov Street, 90. hostal-kzk@mail.ru ☎ +7 (910) 864-95-52.
Vityaz Hotel, Oktyabrskaya Street, 2. ☎ +7 (48442) 2-1591. Belongs
to the unit, located on the territory of the military camp, only
multi-bed rooms
At the monastery of Optina Pustyn there are
pilgrim guest houses and the private hotel“Shelter of pilgrims”.
Cafe Kozelsk.
Cafe
Vstrech
Cafe Raduga
Cafe Apelsin
Cafe Fantasia
Sushi bar
Kozelsk is a historic town located in the southwestern part of Kaluga
Oblast, Russia, serving as the administrative center of Kozelsky
District. Situated on the East European Plain, it lies approximately 72
kilometers southwest of the regional capital, Kaluga, and about 240
kilometers southwest of Moscow. The town's geographic coordinates are
54°02′07″N 35°46′36″E, with an average elevation of around 150 meters
above sea level. Covering an area of about 10 square kilometers, Kozelsk
has a population of roughly 16,759 as of the 2021 census, reflecting its
role as a small but significant regional hub in a predominantly rural
and agricultural landscape.
Topography and Landscape
The
topography of Kozelsk is characteristic of the central East European
Plain, featuring a mix of gently rolling hills, flat plains, and
dissected terrain formed by river valleys, gullies, and ravines. The
region sits between two major uplands: the Smolensk-Moscow Upland to the
northwest, reaching heights of up to 279 meters, and the Central Russian
Upland to the southeast, with elevations up to 275 meters. Locally,
Kozelsk is nestled amid a landscape of swamps, hills, and deep ravines,
which historically provided natural defenses—evident during events like
the 1238 Mongol siege, where the terrain impeded invaders. The town
itself is positioned like an island, surrounded on three sides by
swamplands and river valleys, contributing to its strategic and
picturesque setting. This area is part of a broader watershed, with the
land primarily consisting of automorphic sandy soils that support pine
forest recovery and pioneer grass vegetation in disturbed areas. The
surrounding countryside is rich agricultural land, with fields
interspersed among forested zones.
Hydrography
Kozelsk's
hydrography is dominated by the Zhizdra River, a major tributary of the
Oka River, which flows directly through the town and shapes much of its
geography. The Zhizdra is a fast-moving river with deep valleys,
contributing to the town's island-like enclosure and providing natural
barriers. It merges with smaller tributaries, such as the Drugusna (also
referred to as Druguzna in historical contexts), enhancing the local
wetland systems. These waterways support bogs, marshes, and inundated
areas, particularly in nearby protected zones like the Ugra National
Park and Biosphere Reserve, which encompass similar features. The river
system plays a key role in the region's hydrology, influencing soil
moisture and creating habitats for aquatic life. Seasonal flooding and
slush can make valleys impassable, as noted in historical accounts.
Climate
Kozelsk experiences a temperate continental climate,
typical of central Russia, with distinct seasonal variations. Summers
are comfortable and partly cloudy, with average high temperatures around
23°C (73°F) in July, while winters are long, freezing, snowy, and
overcast, with lows averaging -12°C (10°F) in January. Annual
temperature ranges from extremes of -25°C (-13°F) in winter to above
29°C (84°F) in summer, though such highs are rare. Precipitation is
moderate and fairly evenly distributed, totaling around 600-700 mm per
year, with snowfall common from November to March. Winds are often
brisk, particularly in winter, contributing to wind chill factors. The
climate supports the region's mixed forests and agriculture but can lead
to harsh conditions, such as overcast skies dominating the colder
months.
Flora and Fauna
The natural vegetation around Kozelsk
reflects the southern taiga biome, with mixed forests covering about 45%
of Kaluga Oblast, including oak, spruce, pine, and birch trees
dominating the landscape. These forests survive on roughly one-third of
the surface, with the rest converted to fields and pastures. Common
plants include American cranberry bush, common hazel, English oak,
European mountain-ash, and ground elder, thriving in the sandy soils and
riverine environments. Pioneer grasses and psammophytic (sand-loving)
communities appear in recovering pine forests, adding to the
phytocoenotic diversity.
Fauna is diverse and typical of the southern
taiga, featuring mammals such as deer, foxes, hares, and squirrels,
alongside a rich avian population. Rare birds nest in the nearby Ugra
Biosphere Reserve, which includes bogs and marshes supporting species
adapted to wetland and forest habitats. The Zhizdra River and
surrounding swamps host aquatic life, including fish and amphibians.
Protected areas like Ugra National Park and the Chertovo Gorodische
nature monument—featuring picturesque erosive rocks and clusters of rich
flora and fauna—highlight the region's biodiversity. Human activities,
including agriculture and forestry, have influenced these ecosystems,
but conservation efforts preserve the natural heritage.
Kozelsk, a town in Kaluga Oblast, Russia, situated on the Zhizdra
River, was first mentioned in historical chronicles in 1146 as part of
the Principality of Chernigov, making it one of the older settlements in
the region—predating the first reference to Moscow by a year. At the
time, it served as an eastern outpost in what is now part of Ukraine's
historical territory, positioned amid forested and riverine landscapes
that would later play key roles in its defenses. The town's early
significance stemmed from its location on trade routes and borders, but
it remained a relatively small principality center until the 13th
century.
The Mongol Invasion and the Legendary Siege of 1238
Kozelsk's most famous historical episode occurred during the Mongol
invasion of Kievan Rus' (1237–1240), part of the broader Western March
of the Mongols under Batu Khan, grandson of Genghis Khan. By late March
1238, after devastating cities like Ryazan, Vladimir, and Torzhok, the
Mongol forces—led by Batu Khan and Subutai—turned southward, bypassing
Smolensk and entering the Chernigov Principality. They burned nearby
settlements like Vshchizh before arriving at Kozelsk, an "island
fortress" surrounded by the impassable slushy valleys of the Zhizdra
River and its tributaries, which trapped the invaders on a narrow
watershed.
The town, ruled by the 12-year-old Prince Vasily (grandson
of Mstislav Svyatoslavich of Chernigov, who had died at the Battle of
Kalka in 1223), was well-fortified with ramparts and walls. The entire
population, acting as the garrison, mounted a fierce defense against an
overwhelming Mongol army, which included powerful siege engines like
traction trebuchets. The siege lasted an astonishing seven weeks (from
March to May 1238), far longer than sieges of larger cities like Ryazan
(six days) or Vladimir (four days).
Key factors in the prolonged
resistance included the Mongols' exhausted state after a grueling winter
campaign, challenging terrain that hindered mobility, and the fanatical
bravery of the defenders. The Russians inflicted heavy casualties,
reportedly killing around 4,000 Mongols, including three sons of Mongol
generals, through tactics like a desperate sortie that destroyed
catapults. On the siege's final day, the Mongols numbered about 4,000,
but they eventually breached the walls and overran the town. Nearly all
inhabitants, including Prince Vasily, were massacred—legend has it that
the young prince drowned in blood from the slaughter. Batu Khan, furious
at the losses, dubbed Kozelsk the "evil city" and forbade mentioning its
name, ordering its complete destruction. This event became a symbol of
Russian defiance in chronicles, embodying heroic resistance against
invaders.
Medieval Rebuilding and Shifting Allegiances
After
the Mongol devastation, Kozelsk was rebuilt but remained vulnerable amid
the fragmented principalities of Rus'. By 1446, it fell under the
control of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania during border conflicts. It was
captured and burned multiple times in the 13th–15th centuries before
being annexed by the Grand Duchy of Moscow in 1494, solidifying its
place in the emerging Muscovite state. In the 16th century, Kozelsk
peaked as a fortified border town with around 15,000 inhabitants,
organized into military precincts including musketeers and Cossacks,
defending Russia's southwestern frontiers.
During the Time of
Troubles (early 17th century), Kozelsk again demonstrated resilience. In
1607, a unit under rebel leader Ivan Bolotnikov resisted Tsar Vasily
IV's forces. The town was sacked by Polish-Lithuanian invaders in 1610,
killing over half its population, but was restored as a fortified
settlement under Tsar Michael Romanov in 1638.
18th–19th
Centuries: Decline in Military Role and Religious Prominence
By the
18th century, as Russia's borders expanded southward, Kozelsk's
strategic importance waned, though it supported the army during the
Napoleonic invasion of 1812, particularly around the Battle of
Maloyaroslavets. A major fire in 1777 led to rebuilding under an
organized plan, and in 1776, Catherine the Great granted it a coat of
arms featuring a red field with gold crosses (symbolizing fidelity) and
silver shields (for sacrifice in defense).
Architecturally, the town
developed masonry churches, including the mid-18th-century Church of St.
Nicholas with its bell tower, the 1789 Descent of the Holy Spirit
Church, the late-18th-century Dormition Cathedral (rebuilt in the
1820s), and the neoclassical Cathedral of the Annunciation (begun 1810,
with preserved frescoes). Kozelsk's cultural highlight is the nearby
Optina Pustyn Monastery (Optina Hermitage), founded in the 15th century
but renowned in the 19th for its "startsy" (spiritual elders),
attracting pilgrims and intellectuals like Dostoevsky. It became a major
Orthodox spiritual center until the Soviet era.
20th Century:
World War II and the Dark Chapter of Katyn
Kozelsk's history took a
tragic turn in World War II. Following the Soviet invasion of Poland in
September 1939 under the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, the Optina Monastery
was repurposed as a "special" NKVD POW camp for Polish officers and
elites deemed threats to the Soviet system—doctors, lawyers, clergy, and
military personnel. Around 4,410 prisoners were held at Kozelsk, one of
three such camps (with Ostashkov and Starobelsk).
In March 1940, the
Soviet Politburo approved their execution without trials. From April to
May, the Kozelsk prisoners were transported to the Katyn Forest near
Smolensk, where they were shot in the back of the head and buried in
mass graves as part of the broader Katyn Massacre, which claimed at
least 21,787 Polish lives—the first genocide of WWII and the first of
POWs. About 200 survivors were sent to other camps.
Later in the war,
German forces under Heinz Guderian captured Kozelsk on October 8, 1941,
during Operation Typhoon toward Moscow, causing significant damage. It
was liberated on December 28, 1941, in the Belyov-Kozelsk operation.
Fighting persisted until 1943.
In August–September 1942, the Kozelsk
Offensive Operation saw Soviet forces under General Ivan S. Konev's
Western Front— including the 3rd Tank Army (60,852 men, 436 tanks), 16th
Army (nine infantry divisions, ~100 tanks), and 61st Army—attempt to
encircle the German 2nd Panzer Army in the Kaluga region. Objectives
included crossing the Vytebet River, capturing Ulyanovo, and reducing a
German salient. However, terrain, minefields, and German air superiority
(e.g., Ju 87 dive-bombers) stalled the advance. The Soviets suffered
heavy losses: up to 500 of 700 tanks and 34,549 casualties out of
218,000 troops. While the salient was reduced, encirclement failed,
though it diverted German resources from the main southern front.
Post-war, Kozelsk was rebuilt and designated a "City of Military Glory"
in 2009, with memorials like the Chapel of All Russian Saints and
statues honoring medieval and Soviet defenders.
Modern Era
Today, Kozelsk is the administrative center of Kozelsky District, with a
population of around 16,603 (2023), showing a gradual decline. It hosts
the 28th Guards Rocket Division of Russia's Strategic Missile Troops,
operating RS-24 Yars ICBMs in silos—up to one-third of residents are
linked to this military presence. The Optina Hermitage remains a
pilgrimage site, and the town's history of resilience continues to
define its identity.
The Kozelsky Mechanical Plant operates in the city, producing vans
and special vehicles on the GAZ, ZIL, VAZ, KamAZ chassis; as well as
glass, brick (inactive), canning (closed), dairy, woodworking plants and
three asphalt plants.
The 28th Guards Missile Division of the
Strategic Missile Forces is located in the Kozelsk area. Two-thirds of
the population of Kozelsk is in one way or another connected with the
missile division.